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5 minute(s) of a 64 minute read
4-20-2013
I'm flattered mate!
I reckon get a used VNT turbo or a T25 equivalent modern design. I think using the std exhaust manifold to start with and encasing it in a heat shield will be an easy start. We will have to inspect the layout of it and consider it after we get the engine numbers sorted.
I can say that the more capacity we can use with best DCR to suit, will shove hot gas into a hot manifold to exit at speed through the right exducer and engine pipe. I'm glad I can share. Helps me too.
I just had a thought flash across the blurred grey cells. If you cc the head and we go for a gasket 0.035" thick. Then you tell me if each valve can be opened 0.040" to 0.050" or so and if they are below or level with with the head face, we might just find a flat top piston, like the VW will fall into our lap, compression target wise. A cam of 224 deg at 0.050" is the maximum being used for high torque turbo, these days. It means the inlet is open at TDC but only 0.040" or so. We will consider that as a max duration to start and perhaps trim it once we gather cam sheet data and I find all of mine! I'll start looking for what I gathered before I made up my cam for the turbo 2.2.
Over and out Obi Wan.
If that's the case with the piston, we have moved forward quickly! Once the bore is increased and we sort the cam, a small amount of machining on the crown will give us a perfect situation in DCR without worrying about offset grinding the crank. Pin offset and pin size for available pistons next. Some pistons don't run much pin offset so we need to check them with the Pug engine so she stays nice and smooth.
I'll go and check on my piston lists. I think that VW idea will do nicely but they do need lighter pins and may need skirt reduction which is not ideal.
I've just read Tama's build and we are closer still. He remarked on using SAAB 900 rods from the 80's. Also that he needed to decrease the crank journal to suit, so offset grind may just be possible with them. Also I know for sure that our Ford 6 cyl pistons are around 92 to 93 and are available in many configurations street race and turbo.In fact I'm using Ford 250 cu. in the V8 build. I think the pins are 23mm. Very nice and well made by ACL. http://www.aclperformance.com.au/6MKRY9410.htm
How is this for memory? 0.020" over gives you 94 millipedes bore!!!!!!!! Check the others for bowl type. I reckon there is a race series too, I'll check on that. If we can check the pin height against the Pug and then compare parts from Saab rods/pistons etc we will know more.
I'm using a flat top + 0.030" 93.47 mm, it has a smaller pin so I'm making the small end on the con rod, a full floater and will cut clip grooves into the pistons. I have a gut feeling that 504 XN gudgeon bushes may be close.
I found the piston on the program I was telling you about where it was ideal for it at 0.030" over. A nice fit with 0.005" on the radius hone for the cylinders off std. and the bore matches the diameter of the gasket without having to get specials made. Got really lucky with compression height too as I wanted another 2mm . Handy thing to have.
The ECU for the V8 I have, is made to order for my needs from http://www.ecotecmarine.co.nz/.
I sent the crank and cam sensors over and they set the system up. So what I got is idle control using 306 1.8 IAC, 4 wire.
Knock inputs. Wasted spark. (2 x 306 coil packs), Map, TPS and batch fire 2 lots of 4 injectors once every 720 deg. 80 mins of on board data logging at any time. Fan control, a/c, drive compensation , all that.
Ignition is driven with amplifiers in the ECU also. Lambda as well with a data input from Innovate LM-2. I found this LM-2 a revelation once I set it up into my 404 which runs a Link G3. It will feed the Link and I can log to my notebook but also the LM has it's own logging flash card which is great for reading mixture on the go, etc. The one issue I had though was the power to run it. If I use the cig lighter or car's battery often I couldn't pick up after start and early warm up because the unit dropped out during crank. A motor cycle battery in the case for the LM fixed that drama. Might be worth noting for future reference?