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6 minute(s) of a 64 minute read
4-5-2013
It looks like you're very serious on this project. A fellow nut, indeed! My two kids are 21 and 14 . The big one spoke to me for the first time in 12 months a week or so ago. He still needs to realise he has grown up!
I agree a man needs to enjoy and be with the little ones! Good on you. Doesn't hurt if we have something different to mull over while the little ones are asleep though!
I'm looking forward to reading the past posts and learning. One of my favourite subjects is camshaft and ignition timing curves. Quite absorbing.
4-11-2013
Many years ago, I had a 604 running TRX. It had the standard 604 ruptured duck stance with about 3 deg. negative camber on the front. A faint light of ancient mechanical memory has been lit by Bean mentioning to me " too much negative camber".
The solution I used was a camber pin kit from our Ford Falcon. A 14mm bolt with an off centre drilled washers and the crossmember needed elongating about 14mm in wards or so.
I'll be making up two sets, one for the 404 (which runs 504 late wagon arms and 505 Gti struts in the 404 crossmember) and the 505 Gti stormer. The bolts are Ford design and are Tensile number 10 and are also Aust. Transport approved, so it is all proven safe. A fair bit of work though!
Does any one here use a better way?
4-12-2013
I found my 604 superb, once the camber and castor were reduced. 504's like less castor as well if using wide tyres. I can make poly castor bushes again which helps lower the castor and stops toe out on braking and conering. The castor control really changes the turn in and tyre wear problems.
Another issue with all this is the rear crossmember mounts. If you make the front mount solid using aluminium T6 the steering is a lot more rewarding. No noise or harshness either! I'm playing with a bolt idea for the front of the rear cross member to twist the angle of the crossmember but since then I reckon a better way is to solid mount the front bush and forgeddabowdit. In one of my images you can see a fore/aft bracket on the crossmember attaching it to the torque tube . That will control the engine twist and fore aft float but will also reduce movement of the member on hard corners and accel/brake. I think the theory's right! Finding 504 wagon arms is proving elusive. I'll get my man servant, ( workshop manager) to find the Pug part number. Maybe some nos some where? Uk, France or Africa? The screw in ball joint and wagon arm really make a 504 sedan. So does power steer!
4-14-2013
As Cookie Monster say's, OK, Ok , Ok, Me get thinking, Rabin!
A change in scrub radius, circumference of tyre and the tyre profile needs to be nutted out. The whole aim of steering geometry mathematics is to get as close to full, tyre contact patch engagement, with the road. That patch is quite small so, if using a low profile tyre, it's sidewall flexes less than a larger side wall. Tyre load rating and traction rating, will give us an idea about it's flexibility.
Remember " Slip Angle"? Stiffer tread band and side wall band means less "slip angle". That gives us less flexibility. Less Toe , less Camber for turn in and Castor can be reduced. Castor is the Vertically Angular difference , with our 505's, through the centre of the top of the strut, through the centre of the ball joint to the ground and a line 90 deg through the top of strut to ground.
Engineers in Peugeot,Citroen and Renault have mastered this. A bit of thinkin' and measurin' should get us close.
Mate, I'm so glad I didn't offend! I get a bit serious about it all sometimes! What happens if you use the 2 piece strut and knuckle?
This thinking has made me remember my the 505 V6 beast my brother Andy, built. He ran 7" on the front in 15". with a very low profile Mich. The inner rim was a good 1' off the strut, too. He ran manual steer with a 604 pinion turned down to suit. It pushed a little sometimes but only if you forgot how fast you were going and how wet it was. I reckon your idea will end up a little better because of the larger diameter brings the scrub in more than what Andy had and you have power steer. Andy liked to keep fit and wasn't scared of heavier steering any way. He looks like a retired Rambo now!
I have the engine from the V6, as luck has it. The heads were worked over and cams designed by guy called Ian Woodwood. He did an engeering trade apprenticeship with a bloke called Ron Richards. A lot of water gone under the bridge but I can say the torque was fantastic. We used the Renault 30 exhaust manifolds swapped left to right, I still have them too.
Back to the front end, we ran close to 0 camber with those rims. My thinking is 1/4 neg to 0 and as low Castor we might get from a urethane front bush pushing the arm back. I think we could get close to 8 or 10mm thickness behind the castor mount and start with 1 mm toe total?
I've nearly got myself organised to unpack and set up the lathe I bought for my 50th so if you like I could knock up a couple of test bits to try for castor.
I have this old 505 to set bits up on and a wheel alignment machine so if you have any ideas regarding the steering I can probably test them here. It helps me too!
Nice to compare notes. Thanks.