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4 minute(s) of a 160 minute read
5-23-2011
Finshed the shape of my bonnets air scoop with other bits of the gas meter cover stuck on with poly sealant and then used expanding foam to fill the gaps.
Then some fibreglass. The mould should break down and pull out once I've cut the excess off.
The front end is finish now too. I realised that the fuel tank breather will be exposed to the elements with the new bonnet scoop , so I ran some pipe to the old engine steady bracket. I've also added two fresh air scoops to whats left of the inner wings, so I should be able to get some fresh air into the car.
Well once I've cut the hole in the bonnet out, In theory, it should help with front end traction. It will channel the air that goes through the rad and push on the bonnet and valance and over the windscreen, rather than let it be forced out down towards the floor. And so, again in theory, the faster you go the more that process takes affect. It will help the radiators efficiency too.
5-24-2011
Well. I decided to go through all the possible known issues that give out a fault code and seeing as I've ditched the exup I figured that I'd start with that. I'd read that if you put a resistor between 7.5k - 10k between the black/red wire and white/red wire that come out of the ECU then that bodges it, so I tried it and it works!
I used a 10k resistor inbetween some connectors and fitted it between the bullet connector and on one of the terminal of the 4pin plug that connect to the exup servo motor.
I will eventually cut the plug off and hard wire the resistor in, but it's fine for now.
It works well enough to let you turn the ignition on, let the fuel pump get to pressure and start the car, with no fault code being present. This is ideal and important because otherwise the mapping is slightly retarded by the ecu because it thinks there is a problem with the exup servo motor.
The only thing is if you leave the ignition on for more than 10 seconds, with the engine off, then the fault code returns, but it goes way if you turn the ignition off and on again, so no big deal.
It's better than leaving the servo connected and permanently spinning away.
5-27-2011
Apart from some filler and a final sand, my bonnet vent is finished. Which is good because I'm fed up of dust! I've taken the ridge out of it too and filled up what was left of the hole where the SU used to poke through under the bonnet bulge.
Just normal polyester resin and chopped strand matt.
http://www.fiberglas...resin_kits.html
Theses kits are great deal and nothing like the poor quality kits you get from Halfords: 2.5kg Resin Kit includes: 2.5kg 2-8500PA, 50ml M50 Catalyst, 10ml syringe, 2.5 meter roll 450g matting,1 paddle roller, 2 brushes, 2 mixing cups, 2 mixing sticks and 2pr Latex gloves. - £30 delivered
That'll do you for most jobs and you can top up with more gloves and brushes etc as required. Use 5ml catalyst to 250grammes (225ml) of resin.
Very cool build!
Posted by Diggymart on 2/5/20 @ 8:09:06 PM