Monty the Rwd R1 engined tarmac eating Minus by Alburglar

6 minute(s) of a 160 minute read

After the "five minute" job of replacing the indicator and headlight that were damaged, and quickly realising that one of the bowls was upside down? I fixed that, then finally sat down to look at my wiring. My brakelight is sorted, I think, but the side lights still flash with the hazards, but not with the indicators, so I've ordered a new hazard switch and hopefully it's that.

Next I wired the negative switch wire from the neutral switch and the positive to my reverse foot switch through a normal relay like this:
-trigger is netral light/switch
+input are both from fuse box
+output goes to reverse foot switch

It works and the floor mounted reverse button only works when the car is in neutral so I'm happy with that.

4-30-2011

wiring nightmare's are over! All my random issues were down to earth issues. I should have guessed, it being a mini and a fibreglass one at that! Once i'd connected a big fat earth to the rear light studs and looped it to the engine and back to the battery it all came good. I was trusting a much smaller earth that i'd run from the front bulk head. Which was neat but not very effective.

5-3-2011

Yeah, definately. Wiring was very time consuming, but feels great now it's done.
Finding decent multipin plugs is a pain though. I thought I'd got some good ones from cbs, but the pins slip out. I've poly sealed the wires into the plug to try and rescue it.

5-5-2011

Did the final fit of my inner arches. Put a strip of foam in between the arch and the lip to help with water and dust ingress.

Then fitted the arches

Handily the backs of the bolts were convenient for adding p-clips for the rear loom.

5-9-2011

Yep those plugs are a pain. First lot worked great, the second batch are crud!
I've wrapped my loom now everything is working.
Dash is in for the final time I think.

Offset brushed alumium styling...
...or I ballsed up and put my switches where they don't clear the dash bar.

Drivers View

Shift light and gear indicator are fixed on with sticky velcro tabs. Works well I think.

The brake pedal still has a soggy feel to it, but I've had no more air out of them and the pistons seam to respond well at each corner. I think the mini master cylinder is not up to the job of working the extra calipers. I reckon it'll be fine for the MOT tho, but will need a proper fix at some point.

5-10-2011

Yep. I haven't got a 100% keen MOT man for the job yet, but I have got a bloke who's interested to see the car before he decides to MOT or not. He's a friend of a friend so he should be sweet.
I think I still have a slight oil leak from the oil sandwich plate. If I have I will have to whip it off again and remove another thread off the extension bolt, unless I can nip it up a little bit. Then I can do the final fit of the bulkhead, fit the seats, fix my wobbly head light and then it's MOT time.

err edit - ...and then it's MOT time...after I've finished fitting the scottoiler and refit the rear windows.

-then I'll fit an air scoop for the engine and make a zcars style bonnet channel to get the rad air out and help keep the front end down.

5-16-2011

As usual one step forward and two steps back.
AP racing do a brake master cylinder that fits a mini stud pattern in various bore sizes up to 1" wich is perfect and it's only £101, however it's 4 to 5 weeks for delivery!
Here is a useful link:
http://www.apracing.... Type_2386_2385

I think I'm gonna try a standard non servo dual line system first (yellow tag GMC227). It's a safer upgrade anyway and a bit cheaper. They are 0.7" and 0.75", so I figure it should work as good as my 0.75" did with with just the 4 pots at the front. The second 0.7 line can work the rears.

Got the boot on before L2B

FAIL! - The dual line master cylinder doesn't fit under the minus bonnet. 

Success on the throttle return front. I spent a while experimenting with different fitting locations and springs and ended up with this.

The bolt on the bracket is necessary so the spring clears the choke slider.

5-19-2011

Most on lookers thought I was crazy picking up an old gas meter cover that was left at the side of the road...

5-22-2011

With ignition on and engine off My tacho flashes from 0 to 13,600rpm and I thought it was interference, but it turns out it's most likely a fault code. I've searched the net but can't find them all. i think because on a bike with the OE Clocks, the codes read as numbers, but with an aftermarket tacho the code reads as intermitant flashes of rpm:
4xv Fault Codes for the 99-01 models

3,000 revs = Throttle Position Sensor

4,000 revs = Speed Sensor

7,000 revs = EXUP

8,000 revs = Fuel Sensor/Sender

9,000 revs = Tip over sensor

...or is mine showing that there's no faults, because it is not stopping at one of the designated rpms????