1973 Midget build by ianjoub

By diyauto
( 5 )

3 minute(s) of a 203 minute read

8-30-2012

Well, back to this pic. My driveline guy came out. It seems that a 2 piece driveline is in order. I was advised to mount the motor at as much of an angle as I can cheat, a few degrees of straight. This will make for less driveline angle, thus less bind on u-joints. We will make a short driveshaft to a carrier bearing which will sit about flush with the firewall in the tranny tunnel. Then the 2nd driveshaft with a slip joint (to account for the rear suspension movement) will go from there to the diff. No problem he tells me, "it is only money". :whimper:


9-12-2012

Ok, more progress, or degress, depends on your viewpoint....

The car was sitting too high in back. I had a 240 lb employee stand in the trunk. It was still to tall.



I can't get all of what I need with a spacer block between the axle and leaf spring because the 13" wheels don't have the clearance for the brackets.... This was my solution. 1st, I got out the torchesyawning smileyh shit, not this again:



I am cutting out the shackle brackets to raise the mounting point, thus lowering the car:



And done:


I made some templates out of cardboard, then cut the steel and welded up some new 'towers' for the spring shackles:





I have 2 3/4" of rise in the new 'tower'. This should translate into 1 3/8" lowering of the car because the axle is 1/2 way between the front and rear spring mounts...




Comments

This is a great build with so much time and effort put into recording in words and pictures. Can you help me with this question please, Is the top arm inner pivot point is in the same place as the original pivot point? Regards Davy

Posted by DavyF on 4/16/20 @ 6:44:51 PM

This thread was donated to our website to be preserved. If you want to message the author, please click the source link to contact.

Posted by diyauto on 8/25/21 @ 1:32:42 PM