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4 minute(s) of a 35 minute read
3-14-2014
Holy potatoes. They want $140 just to hot tank my block. Uhhh no.
This brings up a good question. Is there a way for me to test my block, when the time comes, to see if it needs decked or not? I of course want to make sure my new head gasket kit is going back on a true flat block deck. The same machine shop wants nearly $200 just to deck it. I'd rather not dish that out.
3-15-2014
Thanks. That's very helpful.
Once the bottom end is done, I'll be sending the heads in for a full rebuildand have any issues replaced.
I got the blocked stripped today. Ready to go to the shop and get hot tanked this next week. Then I can start ordering parts for the rebuild depending on what direction the block goes.
3-17-2014
Right now everything is on hold. I may have a chance to get a get, low mileage, 4.0 block and roll up this rebuild with something I don't need to repair or modify.
Waiting for the moment. IF this works out, all I'll need to do is scrub out the oil pan.
Oh yeah, I'll be putting the 4.6 gear in it. I do not want to downgrade to the 4.0 displacement wise at all.
I just want the good block.
Well, block fell through.
This weekend I'll be pulling the liners, and I'm going to go ahead and try to clean and degrease the block at home with the power washer. Save some more $$.
Then I have a few things in mind.
4-3-2014
Good block on the way. 73k miles from a 04 Disco II. Professionally inspected.
Cost me $100. Should be here in a few days.
So, onto the next step. Rebuilding the bottom end when it gets here.
First thing. Crank is in perfect condition. All the other odds and ends are flawless. I plan to reuse as much as I can. Cam, lifters, push rods, crank, rods, pistons, etc. All rings, gaskets, bearings, etc will be new.
So, two things. How do I measure if I need std, or oversize bearings for the crank and rods? Any recommendations on things to consider on the bottom end?
4-10-2014
Found the numbers for the crank bearing measurements in the RAVE. Simple and easy to understand. I like that.
Well I now have the block. I wont be able to get it up on the stand until this weekend, but a quick inspection looked good. Sleeves are flush and look great. Whoever had it before didn't do as many oil changes as the original engine from the Rover I bought. Block may have been cracked, but whoever owned it took great care of it.
I'll get it up on the stand, get it back to sparkling clean, then run a full pressure test and inspection. Then it's measuring up the crank, find out what parts to start to order, and start cleaning up the parts that are going to go back in.
This weekend ends the destruction phase and begins the rebuild phase. OH yay, I do say.
That and now that it's starting to creep towards the 50's outside, I may get out there and pressure wash the engine bay.
4-12-2014
Got the new block cleaned up and pressure tested.
ALL GOOD. Block is solid and in great condition. No visual issues and pressure test yielded no leaks.
So, on the the crankshaft to measure for bearings. The crank bearings all measured out within STD bearing recommendations but the connecting rods are right in between standard and .01 oversize.
All measured 2.185". So that puts it right between.
Any opinions on if that is good enough to just go for a STD set, or should I up to the .010 bearings?
Next week I'll be turning in the heads and ordering all the new parts for the bottom end rebuild.