DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS* by Majofo

10 minute read

DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS* 

Compliments of Majofo @ http://acurazine.com

7-21-2010

Here's a basic DIY guide for you guys considering on doing the 105k service yourself. Below will be the basic list of materials and tools you need to complete the job. Feel free to add anything that I may have omitted in the writeup.

A few notes about the task, find at least a half empty garage to do it and give yourself the weekend to complete it. Start early Saturday morning and if you're lucky and everything goes right, you're done early Saturday afternoon.. If not.. late Sunday Afternoon.

Most importantly, I take no responsibility if you attempt this DIY and fuck something up.



Parts

Timing Belt
Drivebelt
Water Pump
TB Adjuster
TB Auto Tensioner
TB Idler Pulley
170F Thermostat
NGK Laser Iridium plus #6994

Brake Cleaner
Anti Seize
Thread Locker
PB Blaster
2gals Coolant 50/50 (silicate free - Honda Type 2 / Prestone)
Shop Towels





Tools

Hydraulic Jack
Jack Stands
Wood Block
At least a 2' Breaker Bar (Can be rented at Autozone for free, or bought at AZ or HF for ~$20)
Impact Sockets & Extensions - CP 19mm
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm socket set, deep neck and normal
10mm angled / elbow wrench, standard metric wrench set
Torque Wrench at least 200 ft lb spec (Can be rented at Autozone for free)
Mirror, Magnet, Metallic tray, Gloves (optional but very useful)
Pan to hold used coolant
Gloves


Prep

Engine cool
Dry covered secure place - garage


1. Remove all covers, unplug battery, raise front end and put up on jacks, remove front pass wheel, remove lower front splash guard.





2. Remove Rad Res, Remove spark plugs, place coils in a safe location - helps when turning Crank and cams to leave them out until after TB job.





3. Unhook PS res and tuck it out of the way, Remove drive belt, remove belt tensioner (learned the hard way)





4. Place jack with wood block under oil pan to support engine, remove side engine mount bracket & side engine mount





5. Turn CP to line up the CP, rear & front cam marks (1st piston TDC position) - verify front, rear might be off a little.





6. Remove CP bolt.. ffffuuuu!!! If you can get an impact wrench, get one. Otherwise don't be pussy, wedge the hex tool with a breaker bar & using another breaker bar, remove CP bolt. I used 2' breaker bar and impact sockets & extensions to get the job done. I soaked the bolt in some PB, not sure if helped but I got it off. It should be easy to remove after the initial pop.







7. Remove upper and lower TB covers. Don't pry the covers off otherwise you might damage the seal on the edge. Remove remaining engine mount bracket.





8. Get all the timing marks in spec with the body, remove idler pulley, remove CP, remove TB, remove adjuster, remove auto tensioner






















9. Open radiator cap on top and then open up bottom radiator cap to drain Coolant from rad.








10. Don't bother with rear engine coolant drain, it's a PITA bleeder valve to get to.. I was able to open it up but not a lot of coolant came out. I consulted 240sx and he said they just pop the WP and let the coolant spill out in the shop and to spray down with Brake cleaner to evaporate everything. If you want to bleed it from the rear of the block get a 1/8” long hose leading to your fluid container and open up the valve with a wrench. If you decide to open up the WP without draining, put l long tray underneath the area collect the coolant and pack paper towels around the CP sensor assy.


Remove the Water Pump. Soak up excess coolant and spray down CP area / WP seal and Timing Belt cover areas with lots of Brake Cleaner. Wipe Clean. Make sure CP area is completely dry and WP seal areas are clean as well as timing belt cover areas.







11. Install new WP, Idler Pulley, Adjuster, Auto Tensioner – tighten battery tie down against adjuster





12. Check your TDC marks and install new TB starting at the CP – counter clockwise. There should be ZERO SLACK all the way to the adjuster. All the slack should be at the adjuster / tensioner. Tighten idler pulley to spec once TB is on.







Check your TDC marks again after the belt is on





13. Clean up CP gear and shim with brake cleaner, reinstall shim (should be lip out) & CP. Clean up CP bolt and lubricate end threads and neck of CP bolt between head and washer with fresh oil. Install bolt loosely and cycle crank six times, check TDC marks (front / rear cam & CP marks). If they don't line up, redo TB installation. Wedge the hex tool again to keep the CP from moving and spec in the bolt to 181 ft.lbs.




14.Replace timing covers, side mount bracket, drivebelt tensioner, check TDC marks for sanity. Remember.. check TDC marks with block not covers. Replace Drivebelt starting at CP, push tensioner back and slip top of Drivebelt over PS pump pulley. Replace Side Engine Mount, clean up securing bolts first. Torque into spec. Release jack from oil pan.









Thermostat


1. Remove intake, remove securing bolts on thermostat




2. Replace Thermostat with new one / new gasket.





Spark Plugs & Burping

Install plugs and coils. Make sure to apply anti seize to end of the thread on the plugs. Replace Rad Res and refill rad. Do a triple check on all harness connections and look for any missing bolts, etc.. Verify everything is back together. Don’t forget to secure the PS Res. Plug in battery and tighten clamps. Start the car and let it get to op temp to burp the coolant system.







Put the car back together and on the ground then take it for a ride.. the SM says to put it on the street and keep it in 2nd then let it drop from 2.5k down as part of the relearning drive cycle but I think it's only applicable when interfacing with the HDS. Not sure..

But other than that, that's it. I'm sure I left some stuff out or neglected to mention some things but that's the basics of the 105k service. I recommend doing a valve adjustment at this time as well. It's an additional few steps after the TB removal but definitely worth it. I have new heads that have been ported with new hardware going in as well, so with my limited time I opted to skip the valve adjustment.

Special thanks to MisterFubar for selling me his Timing Kit at such a good price and 240sx acura tech for the inside tips on the job.

7-22-2010

lol.. thanks.. Some dealerships do the timing belt job alone for less than $700. That's a good deal in my book. I think Hamilton Honda was doing it for less than $400. They're obviously not making a dime but I'm sure they find upsells or issues during the install they can bill additionally.

If you find a good deal, or at least find a good reputable and honest shop, go for it. I'm super cheap. If I can save a buck I'll do it, plus it's still fun to wrench on the car. It's treated me well thus far so I'm going to do the same. Next DIY from me will be the Dash cover.