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8 minute read
SAVE MONEY! How to replace door latch actuator motors!!!!
Compliments of hagialper @ https://acurazine.com
6-13-2015
After reading several threads and using some valuable information I decided to take a slightly different and a significantly economical approach to my actuator problem by changing the actuator motors instead of spending a fortune on each actuator. At the time I completed this task each motor cost only $7.50 
To start with here are the links I looked at for the door trim removal, etc.:
1) https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...irrors-911689/
2) https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-clips-857381/
3)https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...tuator-881963/
IMPORTANT: 
If you look at the third thread above PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not try to pry that nylon bushing and the rod away from the door handle, it is both a pain in the butt and is hard to find that bushing right away. Instead, you can slide the actuator downward and the rod will slide off of the actuator. No worries, you will be able to slide it back on there.
To remove the three screws that attaches the actuator to the door by the door latch I strongly recommend using an impact driver, otherwise you will strip them. Here is what I used:
Also, if you do strip them and need new screws here is what you need: Flat Screws (6X20), I believe cheapest at hondaparts.com
Also you will need some white grease, here is what I used:
Amazon.com: CRC SL3151 Super White Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease - 14 wt. oz.: Automotive
Before you remove all the screws to detach the actuator, and if working on the driver door, I recommend pulling the blue main control cable off first. (See the image below as well as the last image).
If you remove the bottom screw (Z) you can move the window rail out of your way. It won't get loose but you can stretch it w/o braking it to have some room if you don't want to remove it completely. To take the blue cable out, first pull the white wings/tabs (X), away from the actuator, then, pull the black neck (Y) away to snap it off.
Again, look at above image, you can slide the actuator downward and under the window rail and the rod will slide off of the actuator. Installation is in reverse order, no worries.
This is the driver side back door actuator showing the bottom of the actuator and the door handle rod that can be separated by pulling the actuator down.
First, remove those 5 screws.
Then, remove this screw hiding under the sticky pads.
Turn it over to remove the last screw in the back.
See above, this is the top part, I found it easier to start from this end. Open it slowly by prying them open one by one.
Hole A at the bottom should be pushed to the right by default, if not carefully push it, then the black long cables at top left of the image for the lock unlock mechanism( A and B) should be pushed in to the right as shown so they mate easily when you are done to close it.
MOST IMPORTANT PART YOU NEED TO ORDER IS THE MOTOR: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111198111739?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410670129581&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT , there are options so you need to choose: Flat Shaft - 20mm Long Length
Mabuchi is the original brand but not offered anywhere I looked so this one is Nichibo brand, which is an exact fit, and it seems like the same quality for $7.50
With a help of the small screwdriver carefully pry those metal connectors upward to detach from the motor.
I think the lack of white grease on the cogwheel contributed greatly to the failure of the motor due to added burden on the motor. Notice the flat shafts on the motors, align them before sliding the white piece back on the new motor shaft.
I was generous using white grease on moving parts that might feel little too much for some of you. I just didn't want it to go dry again since I don't know when I am going to open it back up again, hopefully not soon!!!
Arrow A: This is the latch part that door handle rod slides off of to get it out, so the rod needs to slide back through this hole, but before you install it back make sure that white plastic ring is still on it although it is not a crucial part, it helps eliminate friction when you pull the door handle.
Arrow B: this is the only difference between the driver's door actuator and the other three as the driver's door controls the other doors as well. To take it out, first pull the white wings/tabs, in my right hand, away from the actuator, then, pull the black neck away to snap it off. Before you try to plug it back in there, make sure the metal flat head on the right is aligned with the orange piece in the hole inside the actuator on the left.
IMPORTANT
Before you install the actuator back in the door you should attach the power cables on it to see if it works the way it should. Even before that, you should check it manually by locking the latch mechanism (see image below) by pushing it to the "close position" and to the "locked position" using a screwdriver than trying to unlock it by pulling on to the latch release cable (try them, one is lock/unlock and the other one is the spring action (latch release) cable).
First push closes and the second push locks the door. Pulling the latch release cable should unlock it all the way every time you try it.
Hope it helps, let me know if you have any questions!
!!!I forgot to mention that my RL is 2008 model, and again the actuator motor shaft has the Flat Shaft - 20mm Long Length. If you open up your lock assembly and find out something different please let us know the specifics that people with the same model RL can order the right motor type. Thanks
