cls6 track car by curtwill

4 minute(s) of a 48 minute read

sunroof is out...34.2lb with attatching hardware,wiring and drain tubes...to be replace with about 3lb of tin and rivets

2-3-2016

sits pretty low now on the h&r race sprigs...don't think I can go much lower without the lower control arms inverting...I think the bumps steer would be brutal

2-14-2016

I might still be ok without the extended ball joints....had a look and the car still has a definite downward point to the lcas...need to load the susp to see the range of motion to see how far inverted (if at all) they go....definitely need to dial in more front camber...when I lowered the civic it grabbed a good 2 degrees just in the lowering...the cl is hardly noticable. I had bad experiences with the adjustable upper arms in the civic (skunk type with the slotted a-arm and movable joint with 4 little screws)...tried 2 different brands...both slipped within the first hour on track causing a massive toe out situation both times, killed our result.....are the spc type adjustable joints a better option? (the type that utilizes the stock a-arm with one big nut to tighten).

I think with the tires I am utilizing as they are not overly wide and not r-comps my grip levels probably wont cause the car to roll to the point where the a-arms invert but it will take some testing...camber first.

still need to weld up some motor mounts as well...I have lost my regular garage space so it is more of a challenge to make any progress.

anyone know if the 'planted' seat base for the 2 gen tl fits the cl?...looks like the bolts are in the same place in the picture but they don't list anything for the cl...it would be a much 'cleaner' solution than anything I could fabricate.

I was thinking that if I get the spc or ingalls type adjustable ball joint that if I 'stake' it in place when I figure our where I want it that it would be less likely to shift.

on our eg civic we did add some positive caster through shifting the upper control arm...unlike the cl the civic has a girdle that the arm is attatches to and that girdle is then bolted into the strut tower...we shaved a little sleeve/bushing material out of the arm and added flat washers to move the uca rearward in the girdle...giving us maybe .5-1 degree caster...car hooks great out of the corners ..unfortunately we also did a spring change and tire manufaturer change at the same time so who is to say what caused the improved grip on exit.

my thoughts also were that if I used the adjustable b-joint that I could 'clock' the pressed in shim that the joint slides in to allow a bit of rear ward motion in the joint as I added camber - effectively adding a minor amount of caster af well...still up in the air on it though.

abs really is a major unknown for me...alot of the bmw teams are running it without complaint as well as others I am sure but our non-abs civic outbrakes basically everything...we can go much deeper before we need to brake...might just have to try it and asses afterwards.