Part 2 by 50wllystrk

10 minute(s) of a 668 minute read

Thanks guys, I've definitely raised the bar for myself on this project.

It was somewhere around the time I created the exhaust system for it that I really started to get into this project. After that it was a matter of pushing myself to do my absolute best.

Through this project I've learned many different techniques from welding, interior, stainless steel fabrication, painting, buffing, ect.

I've never been much of a car show guy but my town has one in June, if I have a deadline, that is it. I've scheduled a couple of weeks off between now and then, so hopefully if I keep my focus I'll be able to enter the show.

Thanks again, I'll keep posting as this truck comes together. Jim

5-5-2015

Just a quick update.... I've been working every day on the truckwhen time permits.

I now have a running moving truck, engine starts great, brakes are working well, all the lights and wiring are working.

I had a week off in April, worked on it everyday then on Friday of that week I was ready to start the engine. I wanted to prime the oil pump again, I switched over to a remote oil filter and wanted to will the filter and oil lines. Shortly after I began I noticed oil dripping from the oil filter adapter. I ended up having to use the lathe to get the adapter to seal properly.

I bled the brakes, all went well til the passenger side hose leaked at the caliper. Ended up the hole wasn't perfect in the hose and I had to do a little filing to get the bolt to seat on the copper gaskets properly to seal.

I kept the same fuel pump that I used a couple years ago, it was new. When I went to start the truck it wouldn't pull the fuel from the tank. I ended up removing the pump and found the rubber check valves had dried up in the pump. I put a drop of oil on each rubber valve and it's back together and working now. I will be putting a new one on before I start driving the truck.

Well... the moral of the story is, if your working on a project and you get frustrated and wonder if you're the only one dealing with pain in the butt issues, we all get our fair share of issues to deal with.

Since I finally get to drive it out of the shop I took a couple of pictures.

As of yesterday I took the bed back off the truck. I have a couple of weeks off so I'm hoping to get most of the bed taken care of. Realizing issues could pop up I'm just planning on working and see how far I get.

5-6-2015

Thanks guys, to finally get to get in and start and drive it is huge. I never drove it before, when it got to my shop back in 2010 Dad drove it off the trailer and into the shop. Last time it was road worthy was in 1986, hopefully soon I can rewrite and restart it's future on being a driving vehicle.

lovett86, it's been a while since we've discussed theory on this thread, so let's theorize for a moment.

I have read the pro's and con's of which way to run the coolant lines. One direction gives max cooling, the other creates consistent temperatures for the transmission.

I suppose if the vehicle is going to be used in cold climates, the fluid could become excessively cooled before getting back to the transmission. In the case of this truck, it probably won't see much under 50 degree driving.

Beyond that, I'd like to use a temp gauge in the transmission and read the actual changes. For me, it's a 5/16" line moving fluid to a unit that has 8 quarts of fluid already at nearly 200 degrees. Just seems a difficult task for that small amount of fluid transfer to change the inner temps of the transmission enough to create any issues.

(My disclaimer) I have theorized before and been wrong, I've heard both sides of this discussion and could be surprised by proof in the future.

Otherwise, the ole Willys is still around and ready at a moments notice. We had some nasty weather in Feb. and it got me around with no problems.

The ability of the Willys to always start and drive is a great example of why I have slowed on this Chevy. Just in the amount of wires connections alone there is the chance of failure in the future. Where and how the brake and fuel lines are run along the frame is important in a way that over time vibration doesn't cause fatigue and crack and leak in the future.

Lock nuts and lock washers, locktite or antisieze on threads can change the future.

I just mounted outside mirrors. They had a 5/16" stud and a 3/16" stud for mounting to the door. For me there is a chance that over time the door sheet metal could give and crack, a simple reinforcement plate inside the door eliminates that possibility of happening later.

You all get the idea, how many times have we worked on something and had some words of advise for the original engineers,. Now it's our time to build and make it right.

Ok, back to work, thanks for checking in everybody, Jim

5-10-2015

Thanks for checking in Gojeep. Yes, slowly but surely I'm getting to the end of the Chevy build.

For everybody, especially those who haven't gotten into a deep build, the word "Patience" can not be emphasized enough.

I've mentioned a few of the hiccups I've had to deal with, there been others also.

We have to remember that we are buying parts from all around the world. In a lot of cases we are investing into another person's ideas and we have to adapt to get what the original intent of the part is. But, isn't that the idea of building something unique, to step away from the norm? We just have to pay the price of the part and the price of patience sometimes to get the most out of our builds.

jski701, thanks for the word of encouragemant.

Jeff88, 4 years, I had someone stop by the other day, they saw the truck sitting outside. As I chatted, I couldn't remember exactly how much time I have in this Chevy build. The nice thing about this thread is the last four years of my life has been documented, basically a diary with pictures, lots and lots of pictures.

Hi dahreno, this Jeep site has such a fast roll over in the build catagory, it doesn't take long and your 2 pages and beyond deep into the forum topic. I cover this quickly for lots of the new guys. The project on the last pages are of a 57 Chevy truck from my Dad, a memorial build. We originally started with a 50 Willys truck in need of frame work. In between we took cake of lots of vehicle parts a pieces.

Your wagon has one heck of a suspension, makes me a bit jealous. Most of the fabrication work on this thread has been welding and simple metal work, enough to repair what is needed and to show some ideas that we can do with a MIG welder.

Along the way I hope it's encouraged some to throw some of their own sparks and learn a skill that they can put to use on their own projects.

Ok, project wise, if all goes according to plan, The bed gets painted. Much the same procedure as the cab with the pin stripes and two tone. I should get some pics. It'll be a huge step on getting this truck on the road.

Thanks again for checking in, Jim

5-26-2015

Progress is the key word today. I didn't want to remove the bed even though it wasn't painted yet, it just seemed like a step backwards.

After removing it I disassembled and prepared for paint.

Then came the painting process. Basically the same procedure as I did with the cab and front fenders. Primed to seal the surface, then applied red where I wanted the pinstripes, then taped over the red.

After the red and silver came the black base coat.

Ok, let's get right to the finished look of the paint.

One tricky part of the old Chevy trucks is doing two tone paint. If you follow the body line, the cab line is about 3 or 4 inches higher than the rear fender body line, I had to chose a way to blend the two lines.

Needless to say, getting the bed and fenders painted and back on the truck is a huge weight lifted off my conscience.

I still have a bunch of odds and ends to finish but the larger time consuming parts are done.

Shortly I'll try to gather before and after pics so we can sit back and enjoy the changes. Jim