Six Pack issues and rebuilding by tommyg29

3 minute(s) of a 193 minute read

10-13-2014

The idle screws are basically set "front mid-bore" of each outboard, as you can see in the last picture, so the rear carb is impossible to get to without a special tool, or the way most people do it, by removing the carb. Of course thats a PITA, so I think promax and maybe someone else makes base plates that put the screws in the front corners so theyre more accessible.

I have no experience with Holley 2 bbls, but Ive worked on a lot of stihl and echo carbs? Of course ryobis are throw aways, but, you get the picture.  

11-15-2014

Pictures of the area where I disconnected the choke system. Could something here be contributing to my problems?

Idle is very inconsistent, and it still wants to just up and quit after running for about 7-8 minutes. I can be driving it around, and then it will just cough and quit, and not want to start again for at least 5 minutes. 

Bowl levels are all right about the bottom of the hole.

11-18-2014

It must be the idle circuit. Prior owner had small copper wires down into the openings and I removed them over a year ago.

When I place new wires of similar small gauge (or put my fingers over them) the idle raises a lot.

I think I will remove the main and check the transition slots again but Im pretty sure they were more or less square. Then Ill drill the 3/32 holes and see what it does with and without the copper wire trick (which looks rigged)

edit

After removing the main, the throttle shaft spring is not closing the blades all the way. Is there a replacement shaft spring, or can I just twist it another revolution? But... even when I force the blades closed they have lots of light showing through around the edges when the idle slot shows square. Also, I noticed the shaft spring is enough to shut the blades when the throttle plate is off the carb, but when the base is mounted, and it has to also push on other levers, it isnt enough tension to close the blades by itself. Im sure when mounted on the manifold though the addition of the main throttle return spring helps it to fully close.

Btw, the idle screw had been turned in too far, exposing almost the entire slot, so at least I fixed that.

Im going to put it back on without drilling holes yet and see if my minor tinkering has helped any.