Yet another, BMW E-36 LSx conversion... by BRAAPZ

7 minute(s) of a 105 minute read

Sorry for the lack of updates on this forum, family issues have distracted me. I still have it, almost on the road.
Here are the updates Since January.



One of the criteria I hoped for in the design was adequate spark plug access and plug wire clearance, Sanderson/JTR came through. Access to all 8 spark plugs is excellent! A Ratchet, spark-bolt socket, and a 3" extension accesses all spark plugs nicely. #7 is better reached with a wobbly added, but can be accessed without if desperate.

Mocked up the coils with a set of factory GM truck plug wires with the metal shield around the plug boot, those also fit on all 8 plugs. #7 primary is close to the rubber portion protruding out the top of shield, a little creative trimming might be enough.

Quick update sorry for crappy phone pics. Took some real pics, hope to get those posted early next week.

Any how, got the JTR headers back from Finishline Coatings here in Portland. This is the Best thermal coating they offer, they claim it is a 60% reduction of heat vs uncoated. They applied 2 coats externally, 1 coat internally. Personally, I really like matte black finish, should contrast nice with the wrinkle black valve covers that will go on after the engine is installed for the last time.

Sorry for the lack of updates. Family issues among other things have taken priority.
Recently was able to get back to making progress, working on the heater hoses currently, trans X-member is on the way, stay tuned. :alright
For now a couple more shots of the JTR headers in Turbo-Black ceramic coating and the JTR LSx E-36 engine mounts.

Small update.*
Made some headway this past week and weekend. Heater hoses are now done, brake booster vacuum line is done, brakes are 100% and bled.*

Relocated the heater valve to just under and in front of the brake M/C. I used the BMW mount that was attached to the wall and attached it to the driver fenderwell as high as possible next to the strut tower. Heater supply hose (5/8"hose off the water water pump) routed down and then under the engine above the rack and pinion up to the bottom/middle port of the valve with a 5/8"-3/4" reducer 180 bend. The other 2 lines from the valve are routed to the firewall under the brake M/C. Heaterreturn line is the only hose routed behind intake manifold. I don't know how you other guys are able to get 3 hoses behind there when 1 hose barely fits.*

Fired up my DIY brake pressure bleeder with a converted Mercedes reservoir cap, (BMW & Merc caps are the same size and threads), hooked up shop air, regulated down to 7 PSI and pumped just over 2 qts of DOT4 through the system and ABS module purging all the old dark fluid from the car. Hooked up the electric vacuum pump to the brake booster simulating a running engine, pedal feels good. ;-)
The only other item to address while waiting the trans X-member is the PCV plumbing. :-(
Once the trans X-member arrives, tie the headers to the exhaust, detail the shifter and boot, radiatorand hoses, and God willing be driving it, soon.*

Update.*

With the trans X-member in hand, progress is steadily being made down the home stretch.*

These pics are of the JTR preproduction X-member, production bits may vary slightly when released. A very stout design that utilizes the OE LS1 rubber isolator and maintains lots of room for a tidy tight exhaust system.*

Finished the shifter as well, will work on the body rubber boot tomorrow. Planning to run the Camaro/Firebird ball shift **** for know, will probably modify the Hurst shift arm to accept the smaller ID Vette **** with 6 speed pattern in the future. Best friend gave me the 6 speed plaque, hoping to mount/inset it in this location.*

Best friend also finished up my ugly rear shock tower mounts today as well, something he offered to help with early on. I knew my shock tower mounts were needing replacement when I bought the car so bought the new sheetmetal from BMW then. When I dug deeper recently to get started, opened a can of worms. My shock tower mounts had been replaced in the past, hack install, and were now blown out again, due to the hack fix in the past the typical method of drill the spotwelds and replace the Sheetmetal was not an option, not able to use the bits I bought from BMW now needing the fenderwell Sheetmetal as well. Finally an E36 showed up at one of the local Upullit yards, took cordless sawzall and cut out both rear fenderwells.*
Pics are before and after of drivers side, passenger side was similar.*

Reliable source noted my solid shifter linkage would transmit engine buzz/tingle, will be looking to rubber isolate the shifter in the near future to help retain as much of the original BMW smoothness as possible.

Between family activities today, was able to button up the interior 99% today. Just need to adjust the clutch and brake pedal switches engagement/disengagement for the GM cruise control.

Tags on steering wheel are power-train fluids notes/reminders.


Ancillaries and serpentine installed, Intake is on, clutch hydraulics connected, throttle connected, all EFI connections made. Waiting on the Stage locking header bolts to arrive, hopefully this week.
If all goes well, could pull it out of the shop under it's own power this coming weekend, following week to be shake down for bugs, leaks, etc.

Here's a shot with EFI wiring connected, ancillaries on, throttle connected etc.