My True Blue Jetta Coupe (225hp Swap Project) by beetlevdubn

8 minute(s) of a 30 minute read

Well, its been a bit since I have had time to update the thread, but I had some time today to take some pics, and get some work done. 

On the management decision, not sure 100% yet, but I am still leaning towards running the 034 management. I can pretty easily change back to ME7 OEM management in the event that I get too frustrated trying to tune the 034. Without a MAF it will clean up the engine compartment/intake tubing, which is a big plus. I will still be running a Diverter valve vs a blow-off valve, as I'm not too into the constant noise that the Blow-Off valves make. 

Ok, back to the project update.... I got my RS Lips back from the polishers late last week, so I didn't get a chance to do a test fit with pics until today... I think they came out every bit as good as I expected, maybe even a bit better. I installed the new-ish chrome BBS bolts just for a test fit, and they look great. I'm going to try to get these assembled this weekend if time allows.  

So, for all of the "BBS RS are so played out on mk1's!", I don't care. I think that the combo looks so clean and so oem+, that I can live with the fact that there are a few on the road and in the photo archives.  

For any BBS purists/offcianado's, I think these lips are factory BBS, but am not sure how to tell. I know the lip is pretty square, so not sure if they are an aftermarket or factory. There are only stamped numbers on the back side, no other identifying markings.  

The centers of these have been clear coated, and I got a set of Akibono pads for front and rear to keep brake dust to a bare minimum (this will help keep the wheels clean, and should help the powder coating to last longer and keep its high luster). 

Here is how they turned out: 

 

 

 


I also received the turbo coolant hose from ProImports while we were out of town. Its pretty simple, but it replaces the hard line that has been all bent and re-bent as seen in the pics below. Basically its banjo fittings, high temp hose, and a spacer and washers. This will make it easier to clean the engine coolant plumbing up a bit. If someone knows how Pro-Imports routed the coolant hoses in their mk4 kit, I'd love to find out what it looked like. I have searched for build threads in the mk4 forum to see if I could find any installation pics, but haven't been able to find any. 

Here is the old hard coolant line that will be replaced: 

 

Here is the new kit: 

 

I was also able to get the engine bay and fender liners cleaned up a lot. Man the compartment was filthy. It cleaned up nice, but since I still have some grinding and stuff to do (mainly to clean up where the batter tray was, and where old brackets were mounted), it will get repainted (all or part) later. Here are the after shots of the engine bay: 

 

 

 

Another issue that I am working through, is how much of the diesel components/wiring do I remove? I will probably just remove it all, but am curious what other folks do when they swap out their diesel for a gas engine. In this specific situation, I have the glow plug harness and power distribution block. I would like to trace it back to the fuse panel and remove all of the wiring, but not sure if there is any reason I should leave it (can't think of any). 

 

Here are a couple pics of the parts that have been sourced for the swap so far. First is the drive by cable setup from 034: 

 

Here is the hydraulic to cable swap kit (parts sourced from VW and WRD). Just an FYI, the cables are unobtanium here in the states, but can be bought readily in Europe for about $60 USD + shipping. Apparently they are still used in some Passats over there, whereas they were only used in Eurovans here in the states, and only in like 93 models (not too many had 5 speed transmissions here. 

 

I just got an early cabby radiator last week (no reservoir, and has a fill neck with cap, and is about 10" shorter than the 16V radiator that was in the other swap). Having the radiator shorter will help us route the intercooler tubing tremendously. With the wider 16v radiator, there was no room for the tubing to come around without making a lot of cuts in the core support, or removing a headlight. 

The 02J is just getting finished today, the mainshaft and countershaft bearings showed some wear, so had those swapped out, and all new seals installed. Syncro's looked great, and the Peloquin LSD has a new home. I will be picking it up on Friday. 

The transmission mount is due back from WRD on Friday, and with it and the transmission back, I will hopefully get the engine and transmission mounted in the car over the weekend, so I can haul it over to the shop to have the IC tubing fabbed up. 

Finally, I was able to source the following items over the last week: 
- Stock AWP camshafts (had to source a second set, as the first guy I paid on here, shipped a set inside of a padded USPS envelope.... only one camshaft made it to my doorstep) 
- Clear European corner lenses (got a crazy good deal on these, can't wait to get them installed on the euro headlights) 
- Momo Champion steering wheel and small hub adapter 

I am pretty much done sourcing the big items for now, just need to get it all together and running, so that I can take it to the dyno to get tuned. 

After getting the engine mounted, I'll be working on getting all of the brakes switched over to the 10.1" fronts, and rear disks, etc.

I heard of a number of people that used the honda cables, but have never been able to figure out what year/model is supposed to work best. Also, I haven't heard from anyone on how the honda cables hold out long term. I have spoken with a number of people that have run the eurovan setup on the 02A/02J, and haven't heard of anyone that had any issues in the short or long term. I am just running a Sachs VR clutch and lightened flywheel, so I won't be running any crazy stage 4 setups, etc. 

I have seen issues with the clutch pedal s braking if they run for a long time without any lube at the top where the cable connects, but usually it wears the cable end, not the pedal. 

What pressure plate were you running?