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4 minute(s) of a 127 minute read
9-11-2012
Got some other projects up my sleeve for the mean time.
Strut update:
After a suggestion from a great vendor, he told me to check that the bottom of my strut lined up with the 'keyhole' on the strut knuckle. He said that he has had the exact same symptoms, and lining that up resolved them. I put a lock washer on that strut since the keyhole was pretty banged up - it appears to be holding well. I may back it off and put a 'higher torque' lock washer in it. It's great to have a quiet strut again though.
Also, I noticed the alignment shop screwed up my camber bolts pretty bad - which would explain the lack of serious camber. Maxed 'em out and waiting to go get an alignment shortly.
10-8-2012
I didn't even get to watch the game. Was catching up at work. Brought my laptop outside and had a nice cigar at least.
Have some goodies going on shortly. Ptp turbo blanket, some dei reflect a gold tape, and an 05 sti clutch slave cylinder with a stainless line.
Long term wise I have an ap hard inlet, 3mm phenolic spacers, and kns block off plates for both the air pump and tgvs. I am debating doing some pnp work and trying to source the composite tic tgvs and selling mine with block off plates. Also in consideration while the manifold is off would be rails and fuel system fixes. This is in direct competition with the house down payment lol.
11-8-2012
PTP Turbo Blanket, Clutch "Delay Delete", Stupid Heat Shield Removed, Winter Wheels, & 'Upgraded' Wheel Stud
Got the turbo blanket on. Seems like a nice piece. The wire took a bit of fishing, but install was easy. I also used some DEI gold tape over the inside of the heat shield while it was off. Got the heat shield wedged over top of it. Not even sure that you really need the safety wire with it at first glance.
I took some time and got an 05 clutch slave cylinder. My clutch has a terrible feel (ask Bruce about it) and I figured this would help out. It basically consisted of taking out a small ferule/restrictor pill inside the 05 slave cylinder assembly. They have since replaced it with a one piece one that is not as easily 'fixed'. Result - more predictable clutch engagement. It's not a miracle mod, but it does help gain some precious predictability with the engagement. I think I'll just get a heavier clutch down the road when mine burns out. Still annoying.
I've had a rattling heat shield above the rear differential/driveshaft/midpipe area. Thing has annoyed me to no end. So... I took my socket wrench and a few tools of destruction down when I was changing my rear wheels. Heat shield was way more resilient than I thought. For 3 bolts... this thing was a PITA to remove. I'm not sure why it started rattling. It appears to have been rattling on the car body as opposed to the suspected mid pipe. Oh well. It's off. Here's my trophy: (note the new shape)
Then after finally wrestling the heat shield out, I went to put my front wheels on. A lug nut was seized and popped off a chunk of one of my wheel studs... annoyingly. Luckily, wheel studs are only a whopping $2.70 each at the dealer. I picked up two and mentally prepared myself for the fight against my caliper mounting bolts. Luckily, I got them out without stripping much. The top bolt did take some material with it, but it still torqued down safely. Made sure to lube them up with copper anti-seize as well. Here is what I constructed to get teh wheel stud in there, as per a recommendation from iWSTI:
It worked well. I'd suggest the 1/2" washers and a bolt to go over the wheel stud. It's best left for the nut to take the torque on the washers than the lugnut to get messed up by the uneven surface. I think it was a an 8x1.25 if I remember right. I'd check before you buy that, however.
All said and done, I will definitely keep copper anti-seize, a spare wheel stud or two, and the washer/nut to put the new stud in with handy for future surprises. Even if it isn't a frequent occurrence - $10 of material on hand can save a lot of frustration.