Jockeygolf's 2011 STI Sedan Build by jockeygolfs

12 minute(s) of a 118 minute read

Installed HT Autos rear diffuser

August 12':

Wrapped headers 

August 12':

-4AN Fittings for Meth Injection

Quick Disconnect, No Drip

Intercooler Section

Pump Section

Trunk Section

Fast Acting Valve Section

It all went in pretty straight forward. I had a small issue with the quick disconnect leaking but it was actually my fault for thinking everything was tightened from the vendor. I tightened all the connections down one more time and leaks seem to be gone. Now time to retune to make sure nothing is weird. I think with the larger lines I may be flowing a bit more than before.

Thanks to WRX02FTW for his assistance in the install. I don't think our hands will fall off after we touched so much methanol. I had to blow out the line from the trunk to the engine bay, my lips have not burned off yet.

September 12':

Installed DW300 tonight. Bought the DW65 install kit for the sock fuel filter since the DW300 comes with the universal filter. Installed in about 30 minutes.

October 12':

FiveO 1200 injectors

Kstech Air Pump Block Off Plates

The passenger side air pump block off plate was a PITA. We aborted this due to the entire uppipe needing to be removed for this job. On top of that, the entire turbo would have to be removed because one of the bolts holding the uppipe to the turbo was blocked off by a hard oil line. I will do this air pump delete when I swap the turbo sometime in the future.

October 12'

Installed my turbo oil line. The one on the turbo looked shot. It did not have the 90* elbow on it and might have been stressed out. Put the hose from Blouch on. It was a bit long but I tried to arrange it to avoid as much stress on the terminal ends where these hoses tend to leak. 

I had to remove the AOS in order to get to the oil line. That caused a slight leak in my radiator line and I had to replace that. I took this time to trim up the AOS lines and remove my meth lines to the intercooler and plug it up. 

I did a little mock up of my lines for the intercooler sprayer and it looks like it should all line up nicely.

Intercooler sprayer bar installed

November 12'

No pictures but we hardwired the fuel pump with the Deatschwerks kit.

Full Blown Double Pump Hanger

I'll be rewiring this thing to clean it up.

Debadged

Grimmspeed Uppipe w/ Tial 38mm MVS Wastegate

We also removed the air pump and all associated hard tubing etc.

March 13':

Aeromotive FPR, Walbro 400 E85 Fuel Pump, Rails and SS Lines

Here is the FMIC mounted with Tial Q 50mm BOV, Omni 4 Bar Sensor, AEM IAT Sensor

DCCDPro FuelPro Fuel Pump Controller installed June 13':

June 13':

ETS Rotated Kit prior to shipping. ETS left out two pipes for the hot side connection to the FMIC. The package arrived on Friday. I found out there was a problem as we were installing the kit that afternoon. Thank goodness ETS is 3 hrs behind since they are in Washington and I'm in Florida. The pipes, couplers and t-bolt clamps were shipped next day and arrived by noon on Saturday to complete the install. 

PTE 6466 Ball Bearing Turbo. This thing is big!!

Installed Rotated Kit

Header Welds

Exedy Triple Disk Clutch

July 13':

Preparing to do some preventative measures from steering line fires.

Braided SS power steer line installed.

The braided line came with the wrong fitting to the power steering pump. The shop machined down the fitting that it came with and put M14x1.5 threads on it and it was good to go. Techna Fit did ship the correct fitting the next day but the one I am using is holding up. The 90* fitting at the pump made it difficult to try to hide the hose under the intake manifold. So it had to go up and over the intake manifold. One day I may just make an extension and route the line around the block much like the OEM power steering line. Eitherway it is well protected with the fire sleeve and being away from the exhaust.

Turbo blanket, up pipe and down pipe heat wrapped. 

Turbo blanket is great. The bulk head wire harness is between the turbo and strut. There is very little worry about it being melted to a crisp now. I can easily place my hand on the turbo even after a spirited drive.

August 13'

COBB AP V3

Oil issues are still plaguing my car after the rotated kit was installed back in June. As of today I have my AOS venting to atmosphere. The heads vent to the AOS. I then bought a Moroso catch can to vent my crank case. The thought is that the crank case pressures are too high and are preventing the oil from draining from the turbo. This then causes the oil to leak past the seals. Precision told me to replace my -4 AN feed with a -3 AN feed as well.

Hopefully this works.

March 14': Radium Engineering Walbro 400 E85 Fuel Surge Tank

So I adjusted the fuel pressure to match what it was when I was just on the DW65, 43-44 psi. For some reason the car is running lean. At idle it is at 15.5. I would think that a higher flowing pump especially this much more flow would cause AFR's to go down, rich.  

Maybe the additional flow is really messing with the ecu and that I need a tune? I always assumed that if the pressure is the same then there shouldn't be an issue

From Aeromotive FAQ:

"After installing a larger (or secondary) fuel pump for my EFI engine, the fuel rail pressure went up and my regulator won't adjust it back down, whats wrong?
To understand this problem, it's necessary to know that a fuel pump does not "put outâ€Â fuel pressure, it “puts outâ€Â fuel flow. A bypass regulator, correctly matched for a given flow volume, sets up a controlled restriction of this flow, thereby creating and then managing fuel pressure. If the regulator won’t adjust pressure down, verify it is large enough for the pump in use. Also, check the return line for kinks or obstructions and make sure the line size is adequate for it's length and the flow it must handle going back to the tank. Remember, at low load (idle and cruise), the regulator and return line together must flow over 99% of the pumps volume. If the return line or the regulator, or both, are too small for the pump, the resulting fuel pressure is considered false-high. This means pressure is out of the regulators control and will drop to the actual regulator set point as the engine goes under load (WOT). A test for correct regulator and return line selection and function is to confirm pressure will adjust at least 5 psi lower than the desired base pressure, vacuum line disconnected."

From this I'm thinking my lines and regulator might not be large enough. When I went wot my pressure dropped. I'm going to jump my lines to test. Basically connect the line from oem pump house to the line that comes off the surge tank feed line. So the system will use the surge tank for return but by pass the surge tank for feed. I'll use a plug over the walbro nipple on the surge tank. And I'll pull the relay so it won't kick on.

Digitalwave lending a hand with his expertise in soldering