You must be logged in to rate content!
7 minute(s) of a 99 minute read
1-2-2013
Well, took the time and some dough to replace all of my worm/pipe hose clamps with T-Bolt clamps. I just ordered my last silicone hose & will be swapping out my last pipe clamps for the T-bolts once I get that in.
All is running great, I have a leaky water pump that I'm going to replace shortly, will keep updated details on what I choose & install.
The tap point where an oil cooler goes on trucks for oil feed to the turbo was a little leaky, further tapped it properly and then due to it not quite tightening up to our satisfaction, we JB quick welded it in place. By the way, it is removable without taking the exhaust off, you just have to do some maneuvering.
I'm still running a 38mm wastegate on a 76mm turbo (68mm exhaust) and I have the boost controller installed (HKS), still experimenting with it for exact boost setting, but its coming along. Going for 3 settings. Off, just on wastegate spring 6.5psi (7.25psi spring @ 20 celsius) so I'm losing about 0.7psi drop across all tubing & intercooler. Then 10psi on setting A, and 12psi on setting B.
Turbowerx oil scavenge oil pump is working great, the bosch 044 pump is working great in conjunction with my 255 in tank. Not having any issues there.
Currently looking at a new battery box, as mine broke during a hard acceleration and deceleration.
Other than these few minor things its still all doing great.
1-23-2013
promised pictures of turbo bracing and etc. here they are:
1-27-2013
I'll do a drive by with the video camera in the driveway soon also. Its not all that loud, but you know its something.
2-26-2013
I wanted to add further explanation to those that buy rear ends, as the instructions given via phone or via manual in the shipping box, I want to elaborate a little on the 12 bolt rear ends.
With C-clip retained rear ends (12-bolt w/ C clip), the end bearing needs lubrication from the oil in the rear end (I believe from what I was told) and with a pumpkin filled to the point of fluid coming out of the FRONT allen key hole this is satisfactory. This is how the factory rear is.
HOWEVER, with NON-C-CLIP rear ends, and WITH SEALED bearings which I believe many have, you actually DO NOT WANT TO FILL THE REAR END UP to where it is coming out of the FRONT 9/16ths allen key (or whatever size it is at the front of the pumpkin).
you want it about 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch BELOW the hole.
If you still experience leaks, then you can also order seals from a company called Seals-it, here are a few pictures of their seals. they are installed where the axle tube meets the pumpkin and seal completely around the axle itself. Only thing with installing this type of seal, is that you have to completely take off the back cover, take out axles, take out the center section of the rear end.
I feel that the answer to the oil coming out of the axle tubes is due to people over filling them, as per MOSER instructions it simply states fill the pumpkin until it comes out of the front fill hole.
HOWEVER, this is not necessary, as with it that FULL, fluid is basically just at the axle tube area and likely creeping down the axle tube without you even moving the car. Sealed bearings do not need lubrication, in the C-clipped rears they use bearings that are NOT sealed and require this lubrication.
So with installing these inner seals from Seals-It, and not filling the rear up all the way that will for certain stop the leaking. I however feel from my experience with all my BS with MOSER that simply leaving it 1/2" or 1" below that front hole will be significant enough to not leak anymore. However, being I don't want to deal with this crap anymore I'm taking all the steps I can to ensure no more leaks.
ALSO PAY VERY close attention to what CENTER SECTION you are using.
Detroit True Trac (made by Eaton), NO SYNTHETICS, NO ADDITIVES - Straight conventional 80w-90 or next similar.
If you don't know, or don't believe whatever manufacturer you are purchasing the rear from, or better yet; YOU shouldn't trust what they tell you, and YOU should find out for yourself BY CALLING EATON.
11-11-2014
Well, after a long while, I finally got the car back on the dyno.
654HP & 688TQ @ 13psi
6.0L LS2 w/ LS6 untouched heads
Forged Rods & Pistons
Turbonetics TC76 Turbo
Limiting factor is Turbo and/or heads. Would make more power, but not spending more $$. Really happy with this setup. Look at how the HP flatlines. will post dyno graph this afternoon
1-12-2014
Yep, got those too. Not certain what it is. Hopefully turbonetics replies back to me on the question about the TC76, but I'm absolutely happy with where the car is as of now.
Don't have the $$ to upgrade to the next level as in reality, I would need a newer transmission, new clutch, new heads, ? new manifolds?, ? new turbo?, new crank (still stock ls1)
The original intention of this car was to make ~550rwhp... so it has more than fulfilled the power I wanted to make.
Crank - ~$9xx
Heads - ~$1800
manifolds - ~$ ? (custom built)
clutch - $1100
...not happening.
1-26-2015
People with new AFTERMARKET torque arms, whether chassis mount or transmission mount. always check throughout the entire length of your driveshaft to torque arm the distance between the two. The need to be as parallel as they can. You can achieve this, depending on the torque arm, but in my case SPOHN, to completely fit my 12 bolt correctly, you have to completely cut the first set of bolt holes off.
2nd best information ever. Learn how to and assembly & disassemble your rear end no matter the cost/time/effort. For nearly 2 years my rearend was setup wrong, barely tightened bolts/nuts, and the crush washer/pinion was never preloaded/tightened. FML.
I have now ordered all new bearings and parts/pieces from Moser for my rearend and completely torn apart and put back together, all vibrations gone and no noisy rearend. Spent from Friday at 4pm till Sunday at 5pm....I must say well worth it though. Nearly a completely new car after fixing all the crap. If you get an assembled rear end, DO NOT TRUST IT. CHECK everything for yourself
