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6 minute(s) of a 99 minute read
4-20-2010
Some pictures from Autofair:
BIRD SHOT
Where in the hell are all of you that said you wanted to copy my front cutout?? I said you could copy me BUT YOU HAD TO POST PICTURES!!! WTF!!!
Hehehehehe, its stock 
4-26-2010
in driveway looking at turbo
cruising by with rev
5-16-2010
Ok, so the red circled parts are the rotor stud holes.
The yellow parts are my studs that are sticking through the rotor (for example). In reality some are centered with the rotor holes, other studs are to one side or the other
the holes for my studs ON THE ROTOR are WAY LARGER then my studs.
when I bought the 12 bolt, i bought studs from moser that are factory size, which is 12 mm X 1.5 pitch commonly marketed as M12X1.5.
Which the studs do measure correctly to that spec, however my rotor holes are ~0.612 inches ----> 12mm is 0.472 .........so YEH.
well after examining my studs, i have several bent ones.
5-29-2010
No. NO. no.
Alrighty, fully investigated this ENTIRE crap.
So wheels are pulled off, pulled the brake pads & etc off. Stared at the rotor on the studs.
So I had all of my brakes transferred to the 12 bolt; nothing changed there. Same rotors, same pads, etc.
The ROTOR stud holes are ALL 0.63 roughly on ALL the holes.
The STUDS are 12mm, or 0.472
So, I was told that my rotors were the problem. So I then investigated how the STUDS were in each rotor hole.
On the left (drivers side) of the car, the studs are sticking through the rotor and touching the rotor at damn near 12 o'clock per each hole center line, towards the outside.. In other words, all the studs are centered with each rotor hole correctly. AND while holding the brake rotor by hand & having someone else try to rotate the studs on the rotor, it moves freely.
On the right (passenger side) of the car, the studs are sticking through the rotor and touching the rotor at all various positions, anywhere from 2'oclock till 10'oclock. Attempting to hold the rotor on the passenger side axle and then have someone rotate the rotor is a no go. It will not rotate.
and the rotor is hard to put on and remove (yes, the parking brake is released AND is not part of the problem removing the rotor)
So then I think, ok, the rotor holes are out of whack. So I pull the driver side rotor off, and put it on the passenger side that is giving me the problem.
Same result with the opposite side rotor on the passenger side.
So I then take the passenger side rotor and put on the drivers side. Studs line up at 12'oclock just as the other rotor did. Well what in the sam hell.
Swap them again and look at them. passenger side is a problem still. So I punch the stud out that keeps bending. hole appears to be fine, no burs. pull a new one in that is straight.
put everything back together and tightened up the wheels. I'll be durned if all of a sudden I look at the lugs & studs in the wheel and I have a bent stud from simply torquing the wheels on the car ON THE LIFT without subjecting the studs to a severe load.
Explain to me how the rotor is the problem if I can torque the wheel up and it bends a stud. I also believe that the axle hole is drilled sideways.
The AXLE is the problem. Will take up with Moser this next week.
ALSO, I was told that the rotors are the problem as they should be more of a tolerance towards the studs, well I will guarantee you that if you look at passenger vehicles on the road today, that ALL or damn near all rotor holes for the studs are LARGER than the studs. The rotors are simply along for the ride, now if a single stud is the only one touching the rotor and the rotor shifts for whatever reason, then yes it could also cause bending.
and I'm going to order a full set of ATE rotors & Hawk HPS pads here shortly from Sam Strano, that have more of a tolerance towards the studs (0.472 in) and I'm going to even see if I can get the rotor on the passenger side, but in the meantime will see about those ATE rotors
6-4-2010
Rear to Front
There is currently an almost 2 inch gap between the rear-end axle housing & sway bar to the intake tubing
AND, I did finish wrapping all that exhaust. I took the pictures, and then looked on the garage shelf and saw my wrap sitting there. then I wrapped it. Even just from the y-pipe up makes a significant difference, I was surprised.