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12 minute(s) of a 108 minute read
11-6-2011
Heres some more Pics of the Ta.
Not alot of progress, but some more pics!
Some more pics of the rear ccw's.
Cleaned up the rims I took off my RS...
And just for fun!
Crappy Cell Phone Pics....
Gotta get them brakes cleaned up again. They look horrible.
Nothing a Nice Burnout with the linelock OFF won't fix.
Heres a few pics of the cage with the interior almost done! And of the MWC SFC's I had Eric Install for me. I need to undercoat the chassis, so please don't mind the surface rust on the underbody.
It sat outside in Illinois all winter and it came back with some rust on it. I plan on scraping and grinding and stripping off everything under there, and then undercoating it with POR 15 this winter...
Playing peek a boo with the MWC SFC's.
Yeah LSx Cars are my passion. I love them so much! I usually work on about 2-3 a week, other than mine. lol
But I don't ever get much time to work on mine anymore unfortionentally.
The torque arm was actually built along with my rearend. It's a custom fabricated 9 inch rearend that Eric at www.midwestchassis.com offers as a complete bolt in kit. He has many different options and his products are all top notch. He can actually build you a torque arm for your car with the stock rearend, and mount it to the chassis for improved traction. Or build 1 to mount into the stock location. He offers a relocated trq. arm as well to take it off the transmission. The stock trq. arm puts alot of added stress on the transmissions tailshaft. Thats why I mainly chose to have 1 built to mount on my chassis instead of the trans.
The rearend and the suspension components that I had him build for me, I am confident I will NEVER need to replace.
He builds them so strong, and so nice, that I would never look into any other suspension parts for my car. I'm very pleased with MWC. They are the best in my book. Hands Down!
I'm actually waiting on my Front Tubular K-member from them, along with some custom "save your *** bars", just in case the car wants to lift the front wheels. I don't wanna damage the oil panand/or headers if it comes down too hard.
Do a quick search and you'll find lots of info about MWC.
As far as the stock 10 bolt rearend, they are weak. But many people including myself have ran some good track times with them, but some people tend to break them with Stock horsepower.
I've managed to run high 10's and low 11's consistently with a stock 3.42 rearend out of a 6 speed car. The auto cars only came with 2.73 and 3.23 rearends. 93 6 speed cars had 3.23's and 94-02 6 speed cars all came with 3.42's.
If you plan on changing the rear gears, you can go with anything from 2.73 to 4.56's with the stock rearend. Maybe even higher numerical gears... 5.xx But I have yet to see anyone running anything higher than 4.56's. They arent needed. IMHO, an "automatic transmission" street car does great with 3.70's in a 9 inch or 3.73's in a stock 10 bolt rearend. And a 6 speed car does Great with 4.10's in a 10 Bolt or 4.11's in a 9 inch rearend. But thats my honest oppinion. And it also depends on your setup, a turbo car will like lower numerical nuimber gears such as 3.23's or 3.42's. Where as NA or Supercharged cars like the bigger numerical number gears.
On your rpo code sticker, (they are usually in the glove box attached to the glove box lid) Look for gu2 or gu3. gu2 is 2.73's and gu3 is 3.23's. that's another way to tell. Or pull the cover and count the teeth, and divide the bigger number by the smaller number and see whats the ratio.
Also, if it's a 2.73 geared rearend, you"ll need to make sure when you buy a gear set that it's for a 2 series carrier rearend. The 3.23's and 3.42's had a 3 series carrier Diff in them. But the 2.73's had the smaller 2 series carrier. The 2 series carrier kit will have extra shims and etc. to make the new gears work properly.
Just another tip for you.
Also, The oil pressure your stating is good for these engines. I personally would cam it even with that mileage... I did a cam swap on a friends car, 2001 WS6 with 156k miles on it and it put down 390 rwhp "Cam Only" LS1, with stock LS6 Intake, and with the addition of headers and a catback exhaust.
Ran hard as hell too. It amazed me bc the cam was only a 230/230 56x"/58x" 112 lsa
Your cam, and stall selection has alot to do with the use of the car. If you need any help I'll be more than happy to. Or get you in touch with the right people. As for the converter choice... Don't go cheap. Yank, Vigilante (Precision Industries), Circle D, TCI, Etc. are all very nice stall converters. But just do not skimp out on them. They can make or break a setup.
And again, any help I can offer... I will.
