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3 minute(s) of a 66 minute read
4-21-2010
Temps went down about 15* across the board. That's better but not as good as I hoped. We only got a few passes in before the alternator took a ****. Steve bought his own camera so the video will be up quick this time.
4-27-2010
One of the things that has been repeatedly mentioned but he has avoided is proper feed and return line diameters for the A2W IC. Because of space constraints in the interior of the car, he has been running a -10 feed and return for the IC. He figured out a way to run the neccesary (2) 1" lines thru the runner under the passenger side door out into the engine compartment, over the wheel well cover and to the front where the IC is located. We will see how that effects charge temps tomorrow.
4-28-2010
Well, one good bit of news was that the big lines seemed to have helped. Never saw charge temp over 99* on the logs. Unfortunately, we fought other gremlins all night and are still looking for one more.
He replaced the alternator with a true one wire alternator. That thing is shutting off at like 4500 rpm and the voltage is dropping like a rock (low 11's) causing everything else to run like ****. As soon as he lets out and the RPMs come back down, starts charging strong (high 13's). He had another larger pully with him so one of our friends ran to the auto parts and grabbed a little longer belt. The idea being to slow the alternator down in order to get it to keep charging longer. Ran it again and still in the mid 11v's range. Car is coming out strong and then laying over before the 1-2 shift. Finally we turned off the fans, disconnected the radio, disconnected the second wide band and ran down the track with only the parking lights on. He made it to the 1000' that time before the boost just dies off. On that pass never went below 12v. At this point, we are looking at a boost controller/wastegate/CO2 or even maybe a BOV issue. Boost is going away for no good reason.
4-29-2010
Here's a screen shot of the log on the final pass which was the only one that he ran out the back door.
White dot = TPS Line
Yellow dot = MAP and Boost Lines
Red dot = RPM (bottom) and Voltage
Looks to me like the decrease solonoid for the CO2 on the AMS1000 is popping off. Nothing else is happening at this time. It doesn't break up, miss or anything. It's running strong and then the boost just goes away. Unfortunately, it was the end of the night before we got the voltage issues resolved so we didn't get to screw around more with the boost controller.