Taking the plunge: LS3 into '64 Tempest. Need help with shopping list. by b-man

3 minute(s) of a 224 minute read

.....and connected everything up with Gates fuel injection hose, pricey stuff at about $7 a foot but it should last pretty long before it needs replacing.

The filter uses quick disconnect push-in fittings common to late model cars and completely new to me. I bought a 12" long piece of 3/8" tubing with quick disconnect ends formed on both ends (about $10) and bent it so it would meet up with the 3/8" pre-formed reproduction chassis fuel line. I cut the quick disconnect feature off the end that connects to the chassis line and used a flaring to tool to form a bead on the end somewhat like the end on a factory line to retain the fuel hose better after it's clamped.

The repro line only needed a 90 degree downward bend added as close to the end as possible. I didn't need cut the end off the line was able to keep the beaded end. At this point none of the hose clamps have been installed.



I bought 2 push-on quick disconnect fittings (about $8 each) to mate the 3/8" inlet and 5/16" return on the filter to the tank fuel pump lines. The tank lines come with fittings already made to accept rubber fuel injection hose, the new quick disconnect fittings went on the filter so that fuel injection hose would connect up to it.

I hung the new 2-1/2" tailpipes temporarily to make sure I was keeping my lines as far away from the hot exhaust as possible. The filter mounts on a 22" long piece of 1" X 3/16" mild steel strap, it mounts to the structure underneath the trunk pan that supports the fuel tank. The filter mounting bracket was removed and painted black after these pics were taken.



After doing some measuring on the engine I came up with the final configuration for the fuel line end on the engine side of the system. I took the line loose from the chassis clips and pulled it down far enough that I could use a tubing bender on it and put a 90 degree forward bend at the very end, again keeping the beaded end. It was bent a couple of inches toward the driver's side and then secured with an Adel clamp. Had to get this done before the engine goes in, no way to get the bender in after that is in there.



Still need to fab a couple of blockoff plates to close up the holes where the throttle cable and pedal pivot used to mount on the firewall as you can see in the above pic.

Mounted the readjusted the rear bumper today as well, the body has dropped down by about 1/4" after installing the new poly body mounts. That's a good thing because it makes the car look a little lower and every little bit helps.